Advanced Application: Sculpted Nails

For Your Information:

For Your Information Sculpted nails are created by applying a nail form under the tip of your natural nail (at the end of your finger) by which you sculpt the nail and free edge, extending the length and shape of your natural nail without tips.

Before You Begin:

In sculpting nails, you will use a form to create an extension of the nail. We carry the most popular forms, including the horse-shoe and square-shaped forms. Your natural nails need to have at least a small amount of growth for the forms to "tuck" under and fit securely. If you have very flat nail plates so that the form does not fit well, you may want to try tips for added length rather than forms.

Success Tip:

success tip iconIf you have not used forms before, practice on one of your nails until you're happy with the results. Placement of the form determines the shape of the sculptured nail. If you affix it too low under the free edge or off to one side, the resulting sculpted nail could be misshapen.

Application Order Note:

If you already have CDO on your nails, begin at Step 4, first filing down 20% of the CDO on all your nails to prevent product from building higher with each fill.

Sculpted Nails: Step 1 - Prepare Your Nails

  • A. Start:

    Start with clean, dry nails free of polish.
  • B. Cuticle:

    Use the cuticle stick to push back the cuticle.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconAs you push it back, you may see a little bit of white cuticle skin on the nail plate. Use an edge of your buffing block in a seesaw motion to remove that white tissue, as it blocks access to the natural nail plate.
  • C. Buff & File:

    Use the shaping file and buffing block to file your nails to the desired shape and buff the nails. Be sure to remove any excess cuticle with the block in a back and forth motion, and remove all shine from the nail. Wipe off any dust with a clean, dry paper towel.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconUsing the 100 side of your nail file, take the shine off the rest of the natural nail plate. File the top, corners and sides. Pull the skin away from the nail in order to get all the oil from the sides of the nail plate. Oil impedes adhesion, so you want to take all the shine off of the natural nail plate.

Application Order Note:

Application Order IconSteps 2-5 are done three times: First complete steps 2-5 for four fingers of one hand, repeat steps 2-5 for four fingers of other hand, then repeat steps 2-5 on thumbs.

Sculpted Nails: Step 2 - Cleanse Your Nails

  • A. Cleanse:

    Place a drop or two of anti-microbial Nail Cleanse on each nail and thoroughly clean the entire nail plate with an applicator swab. Pull the skin away from the sides to be sure it's completely cleaned.
  • B. Protect:

    Close the Nail Cleanse immediately after use and do not allow anything to touch the nails prior to Step 3.

Sculpted Nails: Step 3 - Apply the Protein Bond

  • A. Dip:

    Dip a new applicator swab straight in and out of the Protein Bond without tapping the sides and close the bottle.

    Product Care:

    Product Care Info IconClose the Protein Bond bottle immediately. Overexposure to air can cause some crystallization.
  • B. Apply bond:

    Rub the Protein Bond onto the nail plate, covering the entire nail, so the nail is wet without being soaked. Pay special attention to the back and sides of the nail and then coat the free edge.
  • C. Repeat:

    Repeat steps A-C for remaining fingers in the set. Do not allow anything to touch the nails prior to Step 4.

Sculpted Nails: Step 4 - Position the Form

  • A. Place:

    Place the form snugly under your fingernail.
  • B. Secure:

    Stick the Ďarms' of the form together under your finger without twisting or contorting the form. If you're using reusable forms, pinch the Ďarms' of the form toward each other under your finger.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconFor a more arched shape, pinch the arms more closely together, pushing the form further up under the nail. If you have flat nails, the form will extend past your nail in a flatter shape. If you wish, you can modify the arch later by applying more CDO and guiding it to the shape you desire or you can use tips.

Sculpted Nails: Step 5 - Apply the Overlay

Application Order Note:

Application Order IconPerform Step 5: A-E one nail at a time on each nail in the set. For example, if you are performing Steps 2-5 on the four fingers of your left hand first, Step 5:A-E should be followed for each nail individually.
  • A. Dip:

    Doing one nail at a time, dip the applicator brush into the CDO and apply a medium size bead to the center of the nail. Close the lid of the CDO, keeping it away from light.
  • B. Apply:

    Use the applicator brush to push the CDO near to the cuticle and to the sides and end of the nail form. CDO is a revolutionary self-leveling product and can be guided by turning your hand to direct the product on the nail. Place the brush between a piece of tinfoil and remove from light.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconYou want a thickness of about 5-7 sheets of paper. Make sure you cover the sides and end of the nail form. Your CDO is self-leveling so let the product do the work for you by turning your finger in a position that will allow the CDO to go wherever you want it. The area of your nail most vulnerable to breakage is from the center to the tip. Apply your CDO so that it gradates from thinner at the back, which facilitates easier blending of fill-in lines, to thicker at the center and end of the nail, which reinforces the most vulnerable areas.
  • C. Form Nail:

    Form the nail and remove brush strokes by turning your hand upside down for 10 seconds.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconExcessive brushing can cause bubbles. If you see a bubble, pop it with your cuticle stick.
  • D. Remove Excess:

    Remove excess CDO from skin and cuticle using the cuticle stick.

    For Your Information:

    For Your InformationDon't worry if some of the CDO gets on your skin. CDO has been engineered to NOT bond to your skin.
  • E. Flash Bond:

    Using the bonding lamp, quick set the nail for one second, then remove for five seconds. Repeat this four times. Remove finger immediately if you feel a warming sensation, stop, remove the nail and let dry for a few seconds before continuing.
  • F. Repeat (if desired):

    If you want a thicker application, you can repeat steps A-E.

Sculpted Nails: Step 6 - Cure Nails with UV Bond

  • A. Begin Bonding:

    One you complete Step 4:A-E on all four fingers (or two thumbs), cure the nails in the current set at the same time. Place fingers 8-10 inches under the bonding lamp and slowly lower the hood.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconTo ensure even curing on all nails, place your fingers on the lamp's base in the center-most portion of the lamp, directly under the bulb. Position your fingers at a slight angle so they are flat and close together but not touching each other. When bonding your thumbs, bring the lamp to the edge of your table to more easily lay your thumbs flat under the lamp.
  • B. Finish Bonding

    Leave your fingers in the center of the bonding lamp under the lowered hood for 90 seconds. Remove your hand and lightly touch the product with your finger. If it feels slick, it is dry. If product is still tacky, repeat at 60-second intervals.
  • C. Remove Forms:

    Carefully pull the forms out from under the nails. (When you take the forms off, you'll see that the product is transparent.)
  • D. File and Shape:

    If necessary, remove excess cured CDO with the White Shaping File.

    Success Tip:

    success tip iconFile coming up under the excess as filing on top of the nail removes the shine. File a little bit under the end of the nail, but not too much as over-filing can take off the protective CDO cap you put on the nail.
  • E. Cleanse

    Clean the skin and cuticle with the Nail Cleanse and a clean dry applicator swab.
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